Guanajuato City, Mexico kicks off Semana Santa (Christian Holy Week) with a very non-traditional observation of Viernes de Dolores (Friday of Sorrows) — the Friday before Palm Sunday. In Catholic circles, the somber day is a recognition of the emotional pain and suffering that Mary — the mother of Jesus — endured throughout the trials and Passion of her son.

To this day, townsfolk construct elaborate altars in tribute to Mary within their homes and businesses. Adorned with icons of the Virgin, these shrines are impassioned examples of religious piety and devotion. Constructed early Friday morning, swaths of purple cloth, candles, freshly-sprouted grasses and masses of flowers grace these very personal memorials.

And yet, over the years, this somber ritual has been transformed into a joyous celebration of love and life; color and laughter (at least here in Guanajuato).

This "Friday of Sorrows" is now the magical El Día de las Flores (Flower Day). That which was solemn and sacred is now a festive celebration with unbridled elements of Christianity, commerce, flirtatious courtship, and a dash of paganism. In essence, the rites of spring.

Traditionally, flower sellers converged on the city’s central square, el Jardin de la Unión—a lush, tree-ringed plaza with a fountain and bandstand—to sell flowers to locals constructing their altars to the grieving Mary.

Over time, this makeshift flower market became quite the social scene, attracting teenagers who were more interested in romantic dalliances than in decorating hallowed shrines. With readily available flowers, boys would buy and offer blossoms to pretty girls who caught their eyes.

Eventually, a new ritual emerged: Boys and girls would line up in single-sex files, marking circuits around the permitter of the plaza. The boys’ line would travel clockwise; the girls’, counter-clockwise — akin to a Reconstruction Era cakewalk. When a boy encountered his muse, he would present her with a flower; the girls, in turn, would offer a kiss on her beau’s cheek.

Sadly, that charming tradition has vanished today. But while the sacred traditions of Viernes de Dolores have endured amongst the faithful, the day has clearly been usurped by El Día de las Flores. Romance is in the air. Think of it as Valentine's Day, Part II.

Couples clog the streets. Men buy their sweethearts opulent bouquets. And flower vendors, eager to make a buck, hawk exquisite blooms — cut, potted, and artificial.

Similarly, local artisans are de facto Easter Bunnies, selling baskets of hand-blown eggs filled with multi-colored confetti. Children of all ages run helter-skelter, cracking confetti-filled eggs over friends’ heads. Street sweepers valiantly try to keep the colorful, buckshot-filled streets tidy.

And artists peddle handmade puppets on sticks, the heads of which are also constructed from hand-blown eggs. Dressed in miniaturized costumes and adorned with fur and feathers, these dolls thematically range from animals to superheroes; and princesses to pop culture icons.

Globos de Cantoya (Cantoya's Balloons)

Named for mid-19th century Mexican aeronaut Joaquin de la Cantolla y Rico, these delicate, handmade, tissue paper balloons are the centerpiece of Pátzcuaro, Mexico's annual CantoyaFest.

Over the course of three days, 250 large-scale, unmanned balloons (plus untold thousands of smaller, personal ones) are launched, filling the skies of this welcoming Purepechan/Tarascan colonial town.

Heart of Gold (and Green, and Pink, and Purple, and...)CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Heart of Gold (and Green, and Pink, and Purple, and...)**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

Size

Torso-sized, car-sized, house-sized: Make 'em any size. Being handmade, balloons are limited only by one's creativity, skill and budget. And physics, of course.

Linn and I attended a workshop and made a five-sided, five-sheet lantern (similar to Elmo, below), which took us about 45 minutes to construct.

Tickle MeCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Tickle Me**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

For the sake of size comparison, an Elmo-sized lantern trails behind as the bottom cube in this triptych of balloons.

Cubes³ (Cubes, Cubed)CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Cubes³ (Cubes, Cubed)**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Larger...

Check. Mate.CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Check. Mate.**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

...and larger, still. Balloons can be easily three or more stories tall.

Church MusicCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Church Music**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

Construction

Materials needed to make a Cantoya balloon:
• Tissue Paper
• White Glue
• Box Cutter
• Pliable Wire (for aperture, positioning the fuel)
• Paraffin-soaked cloth

Fitted SheetsCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017 — **Fitted Sheets**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017*

Beats by AnDREsCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017 — **Beats by AnDREs**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017*

Contest Day: Teams of three to five people had 8 hours to construct and launch what would be judged as the most elaborate balloon. Each team was given the same quantity of materials and had to assemble everything on site. The winning team was awarded a cash prize.

Glue FactoryCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017 — **Glue Factory**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017*

"Look! I'm Helping!" (aka Whirling Dervish)CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017 — **"Look! I'm Helping!" (aka Whirling Dervish)**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Friday, July 21, 2017*

Design

The intricacies of design and construction can be appreciated upon close inspection.

Stained 'LipsCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Stained 'Lips**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Pink PincushionCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Pink Pincushion**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Patterns begin to emerge in both positive and negative spaces.

Starry VoidCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Starry Void**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Color WheelCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Color Wheel**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Launching

Of course, bringing delicate tissue paper in close proximity to fire is a recipe for disaster. Wrangling the balloon while trying to get it aloft is inherently stressful for crew members and viewers alike.

An errant gust of wind during inflation or lift-off can create instant chaos, turning a stunning globo...

PorcupineCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Porcupine**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Flaming PorcupineCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Flaming Porcupine**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

into a Hindenburg-sized calamity in mere seconds.

Rumor has it that this particular balloon's crew worked for three, long months assembling their balloon, only to see it fail spectacular on the launch pad.

Safety

And because of that high-risk of fire, event organizers have wisely scheduled the festival during Michoacán's rainy season. Sure, the weather may force unscheduled rain-delays, but launching an unmanned, fire-fueled balloon out into the countryside during the dry season is just irresponsible.

Raindrops Keep Fallin'...CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Raindrops Keep Fallin'...**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

During a rain break, a gendarme recruit trots out his falcon.

BirdmanCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Birdman**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Invited Guests

Festival organizers invite balloon makers from all over the world to participate. This year, masterful artists from France, Colombia, El Salvador, Portugal and Brazil attended.

Those Brazilians were particularly enthused about coming to Mexico this year, because their government has outlawed all balloon construction within their country. (Balloons are frequent vehicles for launching airborne fireworks.)

Brazilian artists design and fabricate their balloons at home in large sections, smuggle the segments out of the country, and then assemble the wedges once they've arrived in Mexico.

Imagine trying to explain to the TSA why you've got a giant Jesus in your carry-on.

El Señor...CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **El Señor...**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

...and His Crown of ThornsCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **...and His Crown of Thorns**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Hello, Dolly!CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Hello, Dolly!**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

This doll launched successfully but caught fire shortly after take-off. It landed on a nearby tile roof and fire crews rushed to extinguish the flames.

Location! Location! Location!CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Location! Location! Location!**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

(Note the drone, taking aerial video and trying desperately not to puncture the balloon with its rotors.)

Tail WindsCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Tail Winds**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

In order to stabilize the "mother balloon" and prevent it from tipping (and igniting itself), many balloons use a counter-balance or tail. This massive banner, also made entirely from tissue paper, hung below the balloon from Pátzcuaro.

Shapes

Balloons come in all shapes and designs as well. From the simple...

Ceci n'est pas un ballon.CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Ceci n'est pas un ballon.**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

Clef PaletteCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Clef Palette**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

...to the graphic...

Quilting BlockCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Quilting Block**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

Outside the BoxCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Outside the Box**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

Close EncounterCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017 — **Close Encounter**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Saturday, July 22, 2017*

...to the pointy...

Sea UrchinCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Sea Urchin**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Thorny DevilCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Thorny Devil**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

...to the wildly complex.
Advanced designers use architectural CAD software to help them piece together madcap designs.

Prickly PearCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Prickly Pear**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Court JesterCantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017 — **Court Jester**
*CantoyaFest: Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, Mexico — Sunday, July 23, 2017*

Luckily, there are strong wranglers to get those mammoth balloons launched. These larger balloons have been known to travel up to 20-25 miles downwind.